Thursday 26 June 2008

Hakone And The Elusive Mount Fuji 16 to 21 June 08


Elusive Mt Fuji, originally uploaded by Lee Family
The allure of Mt Fuji beckons as Pat and I decided on an annual holiday in Japan. Last year we sighted the snow capped mountain every morning from our ryokan(family-run inn) window in Fujiyoshida, Japan's 5 lake district. This year we spent one week in Hakone. Alas, Mt Fuji proved elusive. Hakone is shrouded with the mountain mist and the sun hardly shone through the heavy cloud cover. We managed to catch but one fleeting glimpse of the mountain from inside the cable car at the Ubako view point. The view this time was not of a perfect white ice-cream cone. Instead it was picture of a peak streaked with snow melting under the early summer sun. This was the only sighting we had!

Hakone River
Originally uploaded by LeeFamily

We arrived at Sun Hotel Resorpia, our 6 nights time-share exchange after a A380 airbus flight, the Narita Express to Tokyo, Shinkansen Kodama bullet train to Odawara, the Odakyu line to Hakone-Yumato. From there we boarded the mountain train, the Hakone-Tozan rail to Gora.

The Hakone-Tozan mountain rail company celebrated its 120th anniversary this year having been founded in 1888. In summer one could call it the Hydrangeas (Ajisai) Trail since both sides of the tracks are lined with a plethora of colours from the blooms of this plant. This train climbed several hundred metres up the mountain on a switch back system. This probably reduces the length of journey. The small train zig zags its way back and forth with trains switching with each other at the end of 3 switchbacks.

The resort sits on the slope of Mount Sounzan. To reach it we had to travel on a funicular railway to Naka-Gora. In our haste we got out on the wrong side of the tracks. We needed to cross to the other side but there was no bridge. The only way possible was to wait for the next train to arrive and use the train as the linkway to cross over. Picture crossing the carriage crowded with tourist and dragging our luggage behind us!



Owakudani Sulphur Hot Springs
Originally uploaded by LeeFamily

A 3-day Hakone Free pass costing ¥4400 (S$57) allowed us unlimited travel around Hakone region and several discounts to museums and restaurants. We used it to our heart's content the next day, 16 Jan 2008. Starting from Naka-Gora station which is next to Resorpia we took the first Funicular railway trip up to Mt Souzan. We were too early for the cable car but took the liberty to refresh ourselves with the floral scented fresh air, mountain mist and slight drizzle. The double carriaged cable ride led us up the thick mountain mist to the peak with zero visibility of the valley below.

A brief stopover at the Owakudani sulphurous hot springs valley allowed us to buy the famous Kurotamago black eggs. These eggs are hardboiled in the hot watery mud of the springs causing the shell to be blackened. It is said eating one of these eggs would extend lifespan by 7 years. In which case, Pat and I added 21 years each since the smallest package is a bag of six consumed over 2 days. The air was filled with odorous hydrogen sulphide as we meandered our way between the hot sulphur beds. One must not stop for too long, they say because the gas can overwhelm the poor tired souls. So much for gaining 21 years each.

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