'Public rights of way' are an extensive network of off-road routes found in England and Wales, which are protected and maintained by local authorities, and represent the legal right of the British Public to traverse land on foot, along a certain route. This means that landowners cannot divert, obstruct or close these walking trails. In other words, peasants like myself can freely trespass without worrying about dogs or guns.
Here's a lovely circular walk that brings us through the most gorgeous and dramatic scenery that the Dales has to offer: Malham Village - Janet's Foss - Gordale Scar - Malham Cove - Malham Village
Our starting point is the pretty little town of Malham. Basically, all we did was follow the signs!
From Malham village, we followed the river across a field and into a small glade filled with white flowers from wild garlic. At the top of the river was a sparkling white waterfall - Janet's Foss (the old Norse word for 'Force'). The water was clear and clean, and I think on a warmer day we might have stayed to paddle our feet or splash around in the water.
A very short and steep rocky path takes us up out of the glade and one can walk over to peer our over the top of the falls. The trail leads on upstream, over a bridge and through a camping ground towards Gordale Scar.
Gordale Scar is what is left of a meltwater channel leading from a glacier. There was possibly once a great cavern, whose roof has long since collapsed, leaving this massive limestone and calcite gorge.
Walking to the end of the trail brings us to the Gordale Scar waterfalls - to proceed further along the gorge, one has to climb up the waterfall - a daunting task on a dry day, so we didn't attempt it. However, there were lots of other hikers who were scaling up the cliffs, some of the them claimed to have done it before, on a rainy afternoon when the water is at its fiercest!
This took us over the hills, where shaggy brown longhorns were grazing. It was a very clear day so we could see the hills and valleys stretching green into the distance. We plodded on, listening to the manic skylarks warbling in the air and the tremulous bleating of spring lambs. Pheasants strutted alongside the dry-stone walls, waving their tailfeathers at us.
Eventually the trail led us towards Malham Cove. This is a sheer limestone wall that is about 80metres high and 300metres across. The grooves in the cliff face make ideal nesting places for a number of birds - most notably, a pair of peregrine falcons.
The RSPB were out in full force, that day, with telescopes and tripods all set up. John whipped out his binoculars and we sat on the ground, watching as the falcons swooped for their prey at (literally) breakneck speeds up to 120mph! Their motivation for the hunt lay in their nest: a fluffy grey chick that screamed hungrily and boisterously.
The top of the cove is a fretted natural limestone pavement which is surprisingly tricky to cross. Even sure-footed animals occasionally have difficulty with the uneven stones, as evidenced by the decomposing carcasses of rabbits wedged in those deep fissures.
On the other side of the cove are some stairs which lead to the bottom of the cliff where a small stream trickles back toward the village. On the way, we stopped for tea at Beck Hall, which is a little B&B and cafe located next to the the stream.
Back in the village, a crowd was gathering to watch the Morris dancers. It happened to be St Morris Day when we went, and the Leeds Morris Dancers were hosting a gathering at Malham, inviting Morris Dance troupes from all around the UK to show off their skills. The squire of the meeting, all dressed up in his finery with buttons and bells, even invited me to dance a round with him. What a fun way to end our walk!
I couldn't stop smiling for the rest of the day.
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