Tuesday 15 May 2007

Shrines and Temples

Japan was so crowded, there was little room for personal space. The cities were filled with people and the infrastructure geared to show off the glittering attractions of a consumer society. Even in the countryside, one rarely see large expense of greenery. The farms were small holdings and the villages were not scattered but clustered together. So where would the more contemplative Japanese go for solitude and respite? Shrines (Shinto-ism) and temples (Buddhism) were ubiquitous throughout Japan and especially in Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan. Lionel was standing in front of the Asuta Jingu Shrine, noted as Nagoya's spiritual oasis. It was one of the oldest shrines being founded about 1900 years ago when the sacred sword, Kusanagi-no-tsurugi, one of the imeprial symbols was enshrined.

In Kyoto that one couls visit a different shrine and temple everyday and still would not have exhausted the list in the city in a year. The 5 tiered pagoda was from the Ninna-ji temple. These occupied sizeable pieces of real estate. The gardens surrounding these places of worship embraced and enhanced the serenity of nature and their ponds provided the cool atmosphere and soothing sounds for contemplation. We visited a Zen Buddhism temple, 'Ryoanji'; there was a world famous rock garden of 15 rocks and white gravel. Apparently the longer you gaze at it, the more varied your imagination became.

However looking at the young crowd at the railway stations, we could not have imagined them to be so spiritually awakened. These young “go-getting” Japanese must be the world’s ultimate consumer. Every other 3rd lady we saw on the streets carrid an expensive brand of handbag, Louis Vuitton, Coach or Gucci. The struggle to make a living to afford these expensive items must extract its toll of time and effort and there must be little left for spiritual matters. The shrines and temples presented a quiet atmosphere on weekdays but in visiting on weekends we were met, not with peaceful serenity, but by hordes of worshippers of all ages. They had come to pay their respect to their gods and to submit petitions. The act of worship was fast, and short. It consisted of
(a) Washing of hands at the temple well, a self cleansing act.
(b) Going to the shrine shop to buy an offering or a petition paper.
(c) Standing at the main entrance of shrine, bowing in silence twice and then clapping of hands also twice. There was thick rope attached to a bell, the worshipper would ring the bell twice.
(d) Tossing the offering into the offering box and tying the petition paper to a tree, pole or rope.
This must be a very pragmatic way to evoke favour with the gods, short and sharp, very little time to reflect in the nice and serene gardens. We guessed that they have their share of reflection on the walk from the Tori-gate to the threshold
of the shrine.

In Nara, one of the ancient capitals there was a park where several shrines and temples were located. Nara Park  was famous for its sacred deer. It was the last day for school when we visited and the children led by teachers were out in force. Like us, they visited the shrines and temples and played in the parks surrounding the lakes. The main attraction were the revered deer of Nara Park who had been there mingling with the temple crowd and worshippers for many centuries. The Japanese had taught these deer to bow their heads each time they were fed. The young children found it such a thrill to make these deer comply.

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